Improvement in sewing-machines



2 Sheets-Sheet l.

J. A. & H. A. HOUSE. SEWING MACHINE.

No. 36,932. Patented Nov. 11, 1862.

Q79; I M W W UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES A.'H0 USE AND HENRY A. HoUsaoF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK, AS-SIGNORSTO'THEMSELVES AND AUG. c. SEAMAN. or SAME PLACE.

I'MPROVEMENT lN S EWlNG-MACHlNES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 36,932, dated November11, 1862.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, JAMES A. HOUSE and HENRY A. House, both ofBrooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have inventedcertain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, oi which thefollowing is a full, clear, and exactdescription, reference being had tothe accompanying drawings, which make part of this specification,-aud inwhich- Figure 1 represents a view in perspective of a machine forworking button-holes, embracing our improvement.- Fig. 2 represents asimilar view of a portion of the same, the bed-plate and pressing-leverbeing thrown back and the thimble which covers the needles removed, inorder'to show more clearly the arrangement of the stitching mechanism.Fig. 3 represents a plan or view'of the bottom of the machine inverted,a portion of the frame being broken away at the line 0 o.of 1 ig.-4, toshow the mechanism more clearly. Fig. 4 represents a verticallongitudinal section through thesame at the liuea," m of Fig. 3. The twolatter fig ores are on a larger scale than the others. Fig.

5 represents a view in perspective ot'the curved finger or looper whichcarries the lower thread,

and of the cam which operates it detached from the rest of themechanism. Fig. 6 represents a vertical axial section through one of thespool-carriers at the line 2 z of Fig. 7. Fig. 7 represents a horizontaltransverse section through the same, looking upward at the line 31 Fig.6. Fig. 8 represents a viewin perspective oi the needle and finger,showing their relative position at the commencement of the operation offorming a stitch. Fig. J represents a similar vicw'ot' the same, showingtheir relative position at the moment when the vertical needle haspierced the cloth and is about to commence its upward movement. Fig. 10representsa view in perspective of a piece of cloth with the stitchesloosely formed therein, inordcr to show more clearly the method oftorming the stitch 5 and Fig. 11 represents a wieW of a piece of clothwith a button-hole worked therein.

Our invention, though -gcu'erallyadaptable to. most descriptions ofsewing-machines, yet relates more especially to those machines whichareemployedin' uniting or stitching together the edges of a fabric, andhas for its object the production of a machine which shall be capable ofworking a'button-hole or other similar article in a practicallysuccessful manner by automatic means, to which end our improvementsconsist, first, in forming a button-hole or overcast-stitch by means ofan eye-pointed needle, which works up from below and pierces the fabric,in combination with'a finger or thread carrier, also working up frombelow the fabric, substantially in the manner hereinafter describedsecondly, in mounting the entire stitching mechanism upon a disliorindependent frame, capable of being rotated automatically at properintervals without interfering with the operation of stitching,in orderto sew around curves,such as the eyes of button-holes; thirdly, incombining a bed-plate to which the fabric is attached, having aperiodical intermittent progressive movement in 'a rectilinear path,with a disk (carrying the sewing mechanism) and having a periodicalintermittent rotary motion, the cooperation being such that therespective movements alternately take place at proper intervals, but oneis always at rest while the other is in motion, whereby both sides andthe eye of a button-hole may be worked without stopping the machine;t'ourth'ly, in so combining the mechanism of a sewing-machine that thewhole of the moving parts thereof shall ,be situated below the table orbed-plate upon which the material to be operated up'on rests, wherebygreat facility is given to the operator in manipulating the work;fifthly, in the combination of an eyepointed needle withashank so bentor curved thatthe needle shall move parallel to the shank and carry itsloop through the fabric while the shank vibrates near the edgethereot',whereby the needle can be driven from below and yet work overthe edge of the cloth; sixthly, in a curved finger or thread-carriermounted on an inclined, axis underneath the bed-plate and working upthrough an opening in the same over the edge of the cloth, to take up orenter the loop of the needle-thread above the cloth seventhly, inmounting the curved thread-carrier on the end of an inclined shaft,turning in open bearings and held down by 'a spring, whereby the carriermay readily be removed in thread it; eighthly, in combining the camwhich actuates the threadcarrier with the use die-mandrel in such mannerthat the threadcarrier shall derive its stitching movements .from theneedle-mandrel, while the latter is rotated on its axis by the cam;ninthly, in combining with a rotating disk carrying thestitchingmechanism a perforated plate upon which the fabric rests andthrough which the needles play, as hereinafter described; tenthly,in combiuingatensiou-post with the pert'oratedstitching-plate,through whichthe needle and looper play,in such manner as to prevent the needleihreadt'rom being caught hythe looper as they pass each other;eleventhly,in combiningoue or more spool-carriers with a rotating andtravwith the rotating disk which carries the sew ing mechanism. in orderto control its rotating movements more perfectly; fifteeuthly, in comhitting a fixed and an adjustable guide upon the sliding frame toregulate with precision the turningmovementof the disk to work the eyeofa button-hole; sixteenthly, in combining with suitable guides upon thesliding frame a .deteut on the rotating disk for the purpose of throwingthe disk into or out of gear with the mechanism which turns it; se\enteenthly,iu combiniug with the rotating disk an antomaticshiftingleverto stop or reverse the feed motion at the proper moment when working thebu tton-hole; eighteethly, in a combination of mechanism for impartingan intermittent rotary motion to the (llskfllltll serving round the eyeof the buttonhole; nineteenthly, in combining a pin or stop on therotatingdisk with avgroove on the bedplate, (which has a slight lateralplay in its bearings,) for the purpose of drawingin the fabric to theneedle when working the eye of the button-hole; twentiethly, in formingthe rotating disk in two sections capable of being readily connected ordisconnected, one section carrying the s itching mechanism proper, the

other the driving mechanism; twenty-firstly,

in combining the tension-posts with the disk in such manner that theyshall be carried underneath the same; twenty-secondly, in a thim-- bleor device for protecting the needles for holding the down the cloth andfor guidinga cord to be worked in while making the stitch.

in order to carry out the objects of our invention we construct a strongrigid frame to contain the mechanism. Upon this frame we mount a slidingframe which traverses back and forth in a rectilinear path, and carriesa bed-plate or table upon which the material to be sown rests, as wellas a presser-lever to hold the material down upon the bed-plate.

The bed-plate and lever are both hinged to one end of the sliding frame,but independently of each other, in order that they may be removed togive access to the machinery. A hole is also made in the center of each,and through this opening the needles work.

A driving-shaft works in suitable hearings in the frame and actuates thedriving mechanism. The bed-plate and movable frame derive theirmovements from this shalt. A bracket secured to the n'iovable framecarries a nut traversing on a screw arranged horizontally andlongitudinally beneath the table and turning in hearings in the frame. AAn iutermittent rotating movement is periodically imparted to the screwby means of a bevel-pinion on one of its ends. This screw gearsalternately and at intervals into two bevel-Wheels, secured upon thesame collar. (one uponeach side of the pinion,) which collar slidesfreely endwise upon the driving-shaft. The bevel- Wheels have teeth uponone half only of their faces and are at such a distance apart thateither or both of them may be' disengaged at once, so that the screw mayturn in either directiou, or be at rest, as required.

Thejaws of one end of a curved and forked shifting-lever (pivotedatoneend to the frame so as to turn freely in a horizontal direction)engage in a slot in the collar of the bevel halfgears and slide them toand fro at the proper momentin a manner hereinafter more fullydescribed.

A hearing is formed .in the center of the stand or frame, upon which adisk is supported and turned. This disk, for convenience ofconstruction, we prefer to form in two sections, one resting upon theother, and both securely fastened together. The lower section of thedisk carries the actuating mechanism, while the stitching mechanismproper is carried by the upper section. The center of this disk ishollow and forms a tube through which a needle bar, arm, or mandrelreciprocates in thedirection of its length. The mandrel is driven by aneccentric and pitman from the drivingshaft. The disk turns freely in itsbearings in a horizontal plane. It is actuated by a pusher driven by aswivel eccentric on the driving-shaft. The pusher is pivoted to aratchet-wheel, which turns loosely upon the disk during the forwardstroke of thepusher; but when the movement is reversed a springpawl uponthe disk engages the teeth of the ratchet, thus causing the disk torotate. The spring-pawl is held out of contact with the ratchet when thesliding frame is moving by means of a guide-bar upon the frame; but assoon as the pawl slips past the end of the bar 5 the disk begins torotate. One of these guidebars is placed at each end of the slidingframe. One is fixed, but the other is rendered adjustable, in order tovary the size of the hole worked. 1

A scale is marked upon the sliding table, and

an index attached to the movable guide-bar serves accurately to measurethe hole to be worked.

The vibrating needle arm, which plays through the center of therotntingdisk. has on its upper end a needle carrier or shank, bent intoa U shape, so that when a needle is inserted into the shank it shali beparallel to its stein. This needle plays through a perforalliOll inastitching-plate and through the opening in the bed-plate andpresser-foot hereinheore mentioned. A perforated tension-post is alsosecured upon this stitching-plate to pre- \"ent the kinking of theneedle-thread and its entanglement; with the lower-thread carrier.

A curved finger or threadcarrieris secured on the endot' an inclinedshaft, which rocksiu open hearings on the rotary disk. This shall: isheld in place by a plate-spring". and may readily be removed in order toinsert a thread into theeyes ol'the carrier. Thesis-aft is rocked bymeans of a hentarm, which playsin a groove on a sector-shaped earnpivoted upon the disk.

This cam derives its movements from the nee-- dIe-ruendrel, with whichit is connected by means ot a limit. The needle-arm is connected withits pitinan by a swiveling-joint, so thati't may turn freely on itsaxis. Thearrangenient is such that while the'hnger or thread-carrierderives its rochinguioi'einent from. the needlemandrel the latterderives its turning inure- "nient from the carrier, so that theirrelative position remains unchanged at all times.-

Spool-cases are inserted into holesin' the disk and held in place hysprings. The cases are cup shaped, and have stems in their ho tonis uponwhich an ordinnr spool may he placed. Einitahletension apparatus arealso inonnted nplon the dish Theacconnpanyingdrarvings represent a con-'renient arrangement oiparts for carrying out the object of ourinrention. in this instance the mechanism is shown as supported by andinclosed in a strongl'raine, A, ot'cast-iron. A

sliding iranicortahle, B, rests upon this frame, and is provided withgrooves h upon its under side, which traverseou pins or, projecting fromthe upper part, of the main frame A, shown in Fig. 3, thus enabling, thesliding 'i'ranie to traverse horizontally and longitudinally upon itssupports.

A. hrd plateq'b, is pivoted to oneiend of the sliding frame in suchmanner as to allow it a slight degree of lateral'play on its hinges c.-A. in, 1), upon the plate tits into a hole, or, upon the sliding frame,and thus holds it steadily when lowered upon the slidingiranie.

A. curved and slotted nrnilever or presserfoot, 1), is hinged to thesliding frame at the some point as the bed-plate and in like manner, bywhich means they can be raised from the bedplateeither bothtogetherorseparately, as desired. A slotor opening, 6, shaped like akeyhole or a button-hole, is madein theoenter of the plate andPresser-foot, through which opening the needle I and finger n play. The

material to be sewed is clamped between the in hearings 2 upon the inainframe, by which means the sliding frame B is traversed.

A horizontal driving-shaft, F, is mounted upon suitable bearings uponone end of the main frainmheneath the table. Asleeve, E", is mountedupon the shaft near one end there of, in such manner as to turn with theshaft, and yehbe capable of sliding freely thereon in the direction orits length. This sleeve ries two bevel-w heels, 6 6 facing each other,nixed at an invariable distance apart, and having teeth on one-halfot'their peripheries only; A herehpinion, c, is mounted upon one end'hl'the rotating screiv E: The bevel half-gears e e revolve one oneachsideofthe pinion c, and their relative position is such that either inn}; bein rear with the pinion, (but not both at once,) or both may bedisengaged from it at the same time, when, of course, the screwandsliding table Wouiil heat rest. By this an intermittent progressiveincrement, either hacltrrard or torward, may he imparted to the slidingtable B.

The engagement and disengagement of the half-gears and pinion iseii'ected untoinaticaily in manner hereinafter more fully described. Thedetails ot' this arrangement are clearly shown in Figs. 3 and i of thedrawings.

in the center of the frame a hollow pillow or hearing-cylinder, it, iserected, and forms the main hearing for the sewing mechanism proper.This mechanism contained within a frame,which,forconvenienceot'constructionaudother reasons, we prefer to makein the form of two dislrs, G G, arranged horizontally one above, theother, with an interval between them, but securely constructed androtating; upon the main hearing A". Both bl the disks are per 'i'oratedvertically, so as to leave an opening through whicha needle-mandrel Kplays. The lower dish, G, has a donaward-projecting rim or flange, g,which incloses a ratchet-wheel, H, turning freely upon the main hearing,and independently of the disk. An "alternate irihratory inovcinentaronndits axis is imparted to this ratchet-wheel hy means ot a hat curved baror hand, It, pivoted to its under sitlcby a screw, it. A swiveling;eccentric, H, on the driving-shalt F imparts a reciprocating motion tothe hand it by means of the pitmzin I1 pivoted at one end to theeccentric, and atthe other to the hand, as shown in Fig. 3. The lengthof the stroke of the ratchet-wheel may be varied by inserting the pivotit into one or a series of holes in the ratchet-plate at varyingdistances from the center, or in some other suitable manner well knownto mechanics. A horizontal arm or bar, I, is rigidly secured to thelowerdisk,G. A spring-pawl, h is pivoted to the under side ot'ihis diskand lies below and parallel to the stop-bar L Upon each end of the,sliding frame'B is a curved bracketor guide-bani 1 One of these 7 barsis rigidly secured to the frame; but the other slides in a horizontalgroove under the slidiug'frame. The arrangement is such that when theouter end of the spring-pawl bears against eitherone of the guide barsit is held out of contact with the ratchet whichthen plays ireely'backand forth withoutturning the disk but as soon asjhe end of thespringpawl escapes froin'the guide-bar its other end engages the teethof the ratchet-wheel and causes the disk to turn with aniutermittentrotating movement.

The movable guide l is adjusted by aset- ,screw. J, on the end of thesliding frame. A

scale is marked upon a projection, J, at one end of the frame, and thedistance which the guide moves is accurately measured by means of aniudex,-J, whichprojects through a slot in the table.- The'size to whichthe button holes are to be worked can thusbe accurately adjusted, H v

The needle-mandrel K is driven by means of an eccentric, K, on thedriving-shaft, revolving in a yoke, K on an elbow-lever or pitman, K,turning on a pivot, K, on the frame. The connection between the pitmanand mandrel is formed by means of a swiveling ball-aud-soc ketjoinnKwhich permits the needle to rotate freely on its axis without impedingi'tslongitudinhl. vibrations.

A needle-bar, L,is 'mouuted upon the upper end of tl ie; nan'dr l. Thisbar is vertical, and

bar plays through an opening in a stitching.

plate, M, secured to and projecting above the face of the upper disk, G.A tension-post, m,

extends upward from this plate parallel to the needle-bar, and isprovided with a series of holes to regulate the tension of theneedlethread.

The needle and tension-post may be. protected by means of a tube orthimble, M, which may also serve to hold down the edge of the cloth andto guide'a cord to be covered by the stitching.

A curved finger o'r thread-carrier, it, having. an eye near its pointand another near its heel,

is secured to the end ot' a. slightly-inclined shaft, N, turning insuitable hearings on the disk G. This shaft has a rocking movementimparted to it by ineansof a bent arm, n, on its hinder end, which armworks in a slot, 0,

on a quadrantshaped cam 0, pivoted to the lower disk, G. This cam isconnected with the needle-arm K by a link, 0', and is operated by it.The bearings of the rock-shaftN are so constructed that it can be liftedout of place at any time. It is held in place'whe'n at work by a spring,n pivoted onthe disk G and turning freely in a horizontal direction.

The spools are carried in spool-cases P P", I

which lit into holes in the disk G,and are held in place by springs 11,which encircle the cases. The spools turn on rods in the cas'es,whichhave slots in them, through which the thread passes; Tension-rods R. Rare also secured to the under side of this disl'Laud have holes in them,through which the threads are passed. A retaining-spring, S, is alsoplaced upon the disk. This spring has a slot, .9, in one end, in which aset-screw. s,'works. By this means the spring can be moved eitherlongitudinally or laterally in a horizontal plane.

The d isk is coi'npressed between plate-springs T,-the ends of which aresecured to the frame A, and in this instance the screws a,which securethe plate springs T to theiframe, also form the pins on which the frameB slides.

The slidingl'rame,'as before remarked, is traversed backward and forwardby means of two bevel half-gears, c" c which "act alternat-ely upon thebevel-pinion e on the end of the screwfand are alternately thrown intoor out of gear in the following manner: The collar E slides freely onthe driving-shaft F, and is actuated by one-arm, u, ot' a forked lever,U, which enters a. groove, 6, on it. This lever is curved, so aspartially to encircle the wheel G, and extends entirely across themachine'aud turns upon a pivot, n on-the frame. The other arm, a, ofthis lever is also curved andpartly encircles the disk G. A screwm,

is inserted into the end of this arm. Upon the opposite arm aprojection, u", is also made.

Upon one side Ofthedisk is a cam-plane, corresponding with the set-screwa on the short arm a, while on the oppositeside is a correspondingnotch, g'i. When the disk is rotated the cam-plane strikes against thescrew u, and slides the gears eudwise on the shaft, throwing one intothe other out of gear, or

holding both out of gear at once.

The operation of the machiueisas follows: The parts'are supposed to bein the-attitude shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings--that is, just beginningto operate on the straight side of the-button-ho1e. A button-hole havingbeen out in the cloth it is placed over. the keyhole 0 upon thebed-plateO,andclampedbetweeu it and the presser-foot D. The needle 1 .and

fingern having been properly threaded and the tensions adjusted, themachine is ready for operation. The finger-thread is carried by ,thespool P. It passes through a slot in the spool and through a hole in thebottom ot the'tension-rod R, entering it in theceuter in order toperm'itthe rod" to be turned without eu ang ling the thread. Itthenpasses partiallyaround the rod and through an opening, 7, in the disk G,audthrough the tension-spring S. Thence it passes through the eye in theheel of the bent finger, and along tlte inside of the finger to itspoint, and through the eye iii the point to the other side again. Theneedle-thread passes from the spool P around another tension-rod, it, ina manner similar to that of the other thread, then through the openingin the disk, and through the eyes of thethread-retainerm. Thence throughthe eye of the shank tothe side on which the finger comes on itsupstroke, and down through the upper eye of one can be brought down fromthe spool d onv the ptesser-lever. I

The needle may be covered by a tube or thitnble, M, which preventsanything from catching in it, and also serves both as an additionalmeans of holding the cloth down upon the stitching-plate and as a guidefor the cord.

The tinger n can readily be removed in 'order' to thread it.

Rotary motion may he imparted to the driving-shaft F inany suitablemanner. As the shaft revolves the eccentric K acts upott its yoke K andvibrates the needle-arm Kthrough the pittuan K and rock-shaft K. Asemirotative'or rocking movement is imparted to the finger n by means ofits bent arm n playing in the slot' 0 in the vibrating cam (),which isconnected to and operated simultaneously with the needle-arm K by thelink 0.

The stitch is formed in the following manner: As the straightneedledescendsitpasses through a loop oi; the finger-thread and then throughthe cloth, the loop of linger-thread being tightened at the same time bythe backward and downward movement of the finger. After passing throughthe cloth the needle descends on the inner side of the linger (which isall the time retreating) until its point is about one-fourth ot'an'inchbelow the point of the finger to allow sutficient loopage. It thenbegins to ascend, the loop opening as it rises,

and the finger passes through the loop thus formed, and up throughtheslit and over the edge of the fabric. When the movement is reversed theneedle again passes through the linger-thread, which is again drawntight.

Owing to the inclination of the shaft N, and the relative positions'ot'the needle and finger, their threads are alternately thrown partiallyaround each other, thus producing an interlocked stitch. This is clearlyshown in Figs. 7

needle-thread, and the red lines the fingerthread.

The rectilinear traversing movement is mparted to the bed-plate O andmovable frame B in the following.manner: The relative arrangctnent ofthe catn-plane on the disk G, and the pin '(6 on the forked lever U issuch that the half bevel-gear e is held in contact with the pinion c onthe end of the screw E which moves the frame, thus giving it anintermittent rectilinear forward movement. The turning movement. of thesewing apparatus is eflected by means of the pusher h'. This pusher isoperated by the swivel eccentric H on the driving-shaft, and acts upon ahand, h, pivoted to the under side of the ratchet-wheel; Theratchet-wheel turns on the forward stroke of the pusher, and when itsmovement is reversed the spring-pawl it engages the teeth of theratoitet'wheel and turns the disk around. A series of holes are out inthe ratchet-wheel at varying distances from the center, into which holesthe pivot; of thehand It screws, in order to vary the distance throughwhich the disk is turned at each stroke of the pusher. Vlhen a.half-revolution ot" the disk has been efiected, the stop-lever- Istrikes one of the guide-bars 1'1 and releases the pawl from theratchetwheel. At the same moment the catnplane g strikes the forkedlever U and throws the other bevel half-gear 6 into play with the pinion 6 on the screw E,thus reyersing the movement of the bed-plate andcausing the needle to traverse down the other side of the buttonhole.The length of the stitch may be adj ust ed by using traversingscrews ofdifferent pitches. It will be observed, that by arranging the'stitchingmechanism entirelybelow the table, the surface of the tahleis leftunobstructed, whereby the handling and turning of the work is greatlyfacilitated. Moreover, the operator has at all times an unobstructedview of the work, and can thus instantly detect any imperfection orincorrectness in the stitching.

In Fig. 2 of the drawings a device is shown for causing the eye of thebutton-hole to be properly drawn to the needle; but experience hasdemonstrated that the work can generally be successfully done withoutthe use of this apparatus.

Upon the underside of the bed-plate U is a a groove, V, the curve ofwhich is slightly eccentric to the center of the eye-hole U in thebedplate. Upon the disk G is an adjustable pin, n, which is held in theslot 0 by means of a set-screw. In Fig. 2 the disk is represented asturned somewhat out ofits true position, which is such that when theneedle begins to work the eye of the button-hole the pm c should enterthe groove V, so as to draw the edge of the plate closer to the needle.

any farther, and the pin 20 locks the bed-plate at the same moment.

The spring X can be thrown'out of play by turning it horizontally on'itspivot, and if the pin o be removed the device above described will easeto operate, except that the pin W will still hold the plate steadily.

It is obvious that the details of the constructionof our machinemight'be modified in various ways without departing from the spirit of-1 our invention, which modifications would read' ily suggest themselvesto'a skillful mechanic after reading our specification. Forexarnple',the sliding frame B'might .be made stationary and the gearing framebecaus'ed' to traverse without varying the result. as an inspection 0our drawings will clearly show.

We have described our machine as adapted to working button-holes; but itis manifestly. adaptable to various other descriptions of work.

Whatwe claim as our invention, and desire to secure by LettersPatent.1is-- 1. The combination ofian eye-pointed-needle bar I and fixedbar 1 with the sliding frame working up from below the arable andpenetrating the fabric-with a thread-carrier also working up from belowand penetratiugthe fabric, substantially in the manner described, forthe purpose setforth.

2. Mounting-the entire stitching mechanism upon anindependent-skeletonframe or disk having a periodical intermittentrotary movement imparted toit, substantially in the man'- ner described,for the purpose set forth.

3. The combination of a bed -plate.(upon which the material to besewedisclamped) having a periodical intermittent progressive motion in arectilinear path, and in alternatelyopposite directions, with anindependent disk orframe carrying the stitchingmechanism and having anoccasional intermittent rotating movement in one direetion,lwhenco-operatin g, substantially in the manner described,- for the purposeof working automatically both sidesand the eye of a button-hole, asherein set forth.

4. The combination of a stitching, mechanism, substantially such asdescribed,'with a bed-plate or table upon which the fabric rests in suchmanner that the whole of the entire mechanism shall be beneath thebed-plate, as herein described.

The combination of an eye-pointed needle with a shank so curved or bentthat the needle shall move parallel to the shankand carry itsloopthrough the fabric while the shank vibrates near the edge thereof,substantially in the manner described, for the purpose of sew.- iug overthe ed go of a fabric, as herein set forth. 4

6. The curved finger or thread carrier a, whenarranged and operatingsubstantially as and for the purpose specified.

7. The combination of the inclined shaft N of the thread-carrier, whenmade to rest in open bearings, with a retaining-spring, n substan---t'ially as described, for the purpose set forth.

8. The combination of the cam O, inclined shaft '12, and needle-mandrelK, when co-operating substantially in the manner and for the purposedescribed.

9. The combination of the rotating disk G and stitchingFpla-te M, as andfor the purpose described.

10. The combination of'the stitching-plate M and tension-post m,-substantia-lly as and for the" purpose described. I

11. The combination of the spool-cases P P,

diskG, needle], and thread-carrier u, when arranged andoperatingsubstantially in the manner described.

12. The combination" of-the-spbol-case P, tension-post R.adjusting-spring S, and thread- .carrier n,.substanti ally as described,for the purpose of regulating the positionof the pearl, as set forth.

13. The combination of the sliding frame B and traversing-screw E.substantially in the manner audifor the purpose set forth 14. Thecombination of the rotating disk G with the friclion spriugs T,substantially as and for the purpose described.

15. The combination of the adjustable guide- B, substantially in themanner and for the-purpose described.

16. The combination of the guide-bars I? with the stop-lever- I andspring-pawl 11?, substantially in the manner and for the purposedescribed.

17.. The combination of the shifting-lever U with the rotating disk G,substantially in the manner and for the purpose described.

18. The combination of the pusher h, ratchet-wheel H, and spring-pawl-h,substantially in the manner and for the purpose described.

19. The combination of the groove V on the bed-plate with the stop'pin eon the disk, substantially as and for the purposeset forth.

20. The combination of the two sectionsGG of the disk, when connectedand cooperating substantially in the manner and for thepurposes-described.

21. The'combination of the tension-postsRR with thedisk-G, when arrangedbeneath the same, as and for the purpose described.

22. The shield or thimble M, to protect the needle, to bear upon thefabric, and to retain the gimp in position, substantially in the mannerdescribed.

In testimony whereof we have hereuntosnbscribed our'narnes.

' JAMES A. HOUSE.

HENRY A. HOUSE. Witnesses:

E. N. House, F. HEARSON.

